I was sailing to Tonle Sap in Cambodia when this beautiful white mosque appeared. It was bathed in sunlight while the surrounding riverine village was shaded under clouds. It wasn’t easy nailing the exposure on a shaky boat but I’m quite happy with the results.
Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in South-East Asia and the area is rightfully designated by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve. My journey began on the mighty Mekong in Phnom Penh and ended near Siem Reap where Angkor Wat is.
In my recent post on Angkor Wat, I mentioned about exploring the rest of Cambodia. One of the best ways to see the heart of this beautiful country is to take a boat from the capital Phnom Penh to the northern city of Siem Reap.
The fascinating journey took me through the mighty Tonle Sap, South-East Asia’s biggest freshwater lake. Uniquely, this lake will swell and shrink according to the seasons. During the dry period between November and May, it drains back into the Mekong River.
During the monsoon, the river reverses its flow and swells the lake by five-fold to around 16,000 sq km. The surrounding plains are flooded but the riverside communities have adapted to it, as they have for thousands of years. So to embark on this vovage one needs to go with the flow, literally. Now is the time!
Riverside Mosque
My voyage begins at Phnom Penh. A majestic white mosque comes into view as the boat chugs its way.
River Life
Villages lined the long river and many are accessible only by boat.
Tonle Sap Biosphere Reserve
The annual flooding changes the landscape and supports a diverse but delicate eco-system. Endangered wildlife such as birds, otters, crocodiles, turtles and other animals can be seen on the mangroves.
Father & Son Team
With a little help, it’s time to fish. Fishing for sustenance and livelihood is a primary activity during this period.
In The Middle Of Tonle Sap
Dead center in the lake, the atmosphere is almost eerie. It is like being in the middle of the ocean with no coastline visible except the water is almost still here.
Reaching Siem Reap
Near Siem Reap (and Angkor Wat), there is a lot of traffic again. Boats zig-zag in our path and locals jump between boats casually.
Satellite View Of Tonle Sap:
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All pictures photographed with the Olympus E-3 by & © TV Smith
Coming soon: Bus Ride From Phnom Penh To Saigon!
I have been to Angkor Wat several times, over the years. A new phenomenon is taking over the ancient stone temples.
On my last trip there, I was trying to beat the clock and catch the fabled sunset. Climbing up the near-vertical steps of the magnificent ruins, I felt both breathless and exhilarated.
The Ruins Of Angkor Wat
Halfway up, I even imagined myself as Angelina Jolie and wanted to adopt a Cambodian baby. Then, as I reached the peak, there were… well… a million other tourists already up there. That’s alright. I made it in time.
Suddenly, a macha shouted at me from above; “Dei! You from Malaysia ah?” Before I could even answer, another stranger (an elderly Chinese woman next to me) volunteered; “Myself Ipoh Mali!” That’s sweet. Malaysians can sniff out a fellow Malaysian, wherever they may be.
Malaysia Mali!
With the advent of affordable air travel, Malaysians are flying directly to Siem Reap by the plane loads, thanks to another macha. But most just stay for a night and never really explore the rest of the beautiful country. I will share with you some of my detours into unknown territory over the next few postings.
But if you are ever in Angkor Wat, remember this. Cast a stone and you’ll hit a Malaysian…